Human-powered-vehicles / bicycles, trikes, quadracycles, enclosed velomobiles

Did you know that the bicycle is the most efficient form of transportation in the world? The efficiency is measured via the amount of total travel energy used from one point to another and compared to the total weight moved a particular distance. Yes, the bicycle is more efficient than any car, truck, aircraft, train/locomotive, and actually more efficient than a bird or a horse.

The Human Powered Vehicle (HPV) category includes bicycles (2 wheels), tricycles (3 wheels), quadracycles (4 wheels), and enclosed velomobiles which normally are built in a tricycle or quadracycle configuration.

For the do-it-yourself mechanic, of course, I most recommend using 100% synthetic lubricants throughout your HPV. As for chain lubricant, I found “Super Lube” spray synthetic lubricant to be the best you can use. As compared to the normal chain and gear set lifetime (in miles or kilometers), this excellent lubricant can make your transmission last up to 10 times longer.

If you use puncture-resistant clincher tires on your machine, such as Kevlar-belted or Aramid-belted type, or even if you use "Complete hard-case" tires for additional side-wall protection, it's still a good idea to carry one or two spare tubes, your mini or frame-mounted pump, and any necessary tire-removing tools, just in case of a rare valve-failure occurrence where the valve starts leaking at the base, for example.  If you use puncture-resistant tubular tires (sew-ups), then carrying a spare folding tire, rim cement, pump, and tools, for this reason is a good idea, also.  
 
When riding your bicycle indoors on a trainer, or when using an exercise bike, to avoid excessive sweating and to keep your body cooler, place an electric pedestal fan approx. 6 to 7 ft. away from where your face would normally be positioned while on your machine .  With the fan housing adjusted exactly or nearly perpendicular to the floor (exactly or nearly horizontal wind direction), most pedestal fans are close to or exactly at optimum height where the center of the fan blade guard is the same height from the floor as your face is positioned when mounted on your machine.  The fan helps assimilate the cooling effect of the wind on a warm day as if you would actually be cycling outdoors.  Adjust the fan speed to your most desired wind speed effect.  If not using a pedestal fan, then a light weight, portable fan can be used if placed on a table of optimum height.

Some important crankset and other technical info!
     
    Definition of crankset Q-factor:  When a crankset is fully-installed on a bicycle, trike (or any other human-powered-vehicle / HPV or human-powered-electric-generator vehicle / HPGEV), Q-factor is the distance between the left and right crank arms at the outer, flat surface of the pedal-mounting area, which is where the female threads are for mounting the pedals.  There are a few easy ways of obtaining this measurement.  
     Although bicycle (HPV) crankset Q-factor is an important subject to know about, there are a good number of cyclists who may not think about thier machine's Q-factor measurement.  For many years, up until starting around 1990, average quality 3-piece cottered and cotterless to 3-piece top-quality cotterless cranksets with the common, road-type double chainring setup with front derailleur had a Q-factor of between 134mm and 142mm.  Basically all the top quality double-chainring, cotterless cranksets of the mid-1970's to the late 1980's, (known as the most commonly-liked road bicycle vintage era) had Q-factors of between 135mm and 138mm.  This was the ideal range for basically 99.5% of all the avid cyclists.    For example, when new, a vintage era Campagnolo Nuovo or Super-Record crankset with a 113mm bottom bracket (BB) spindle length had a Q-factor of 135.5mm.  After many miles of riding and occasional BB maintenance, and bolt tightness checking, the Q-factor normally measures approx. 1 to 1.5mm less as the crankarm tapers on a common, square-taper crankset wear or "compress" slightly.
     Single-chainring track bikes or single-freewheel bikes of that same era may have slightly narrower Q-factors and road, hybrid, or mountain bikes with triple chainring cranksets will have slightly wider Q-factors than a double-chainring machine.
     It has been stated on the internet that too wide of a Q-factor, with some cyclists, may cause some problems or discomfort with knees, ankles, or hip area joints.  This may reduce some efficiency, also.  Take note that when you walk, your feet naturally stay a certain distance apart.  This distance many times can be similar to the distance between your feet when you are riding a narrow Q-factor machine using toe-clips and straps and good cycling shoes, or when using clipless pedals with matching, cleated cycling shoes.   Recommending the optimum Q-factor for a particular cyclist may not be an easy task, however, in my opinion, being an avid road cyclist since 1974, and still only riding machines with vintage, narrow Q-factor cranksets, I always prefer that same narrow Q-factor of between 134mm and 138mm.  Anything wider simply does not feel right with me.
     Do more research online about "crankset Q-factor" and make your decision as to what you would like to try.  If you are concerned about the Q-factor of a future machine you would like to purchase like a recumbent trike, velomobile, or HPGEV, contact the dealership or manufacturer about the Q-factor subject and maybe you may be able to get a custom modification option or you may also suggest that they consider some Q-factor options for the general cycling public, starting with 134 or 135mm.  In many recumbent machines, since the crankset bearing housing is forward of the rider, instead of in a BB below the rider, narrow Q-factors may be easier to obtain even with wider freewheels / cassette freewheels.  This simply depends on the machine's design and also the awareness of this subject by the manufacturer.  
    About optimum crank arm length:  You may already know or have been using your favorite crank arm length.  If you wish to have further info, however, check online, and you'll find some images of charts or info pages showing the most recommended crank arm lengths for cranksets, depending on the rider's height or more accurately depending on the rider's inseam.  Be sure to measure your inseam properly, from crotch area to floor, which is with your legs close together, having no shoes on (socks are OK), and with measuring tape pressed firmly against your crotch bone (the bone area where you sit on a saddle as when on a standard-frame, upright bicycle or trike).  You can have on standard thickness pants or shorts on when making this measurement.  Many times, it's easier and more accurate having another person help with this measurement.  When figuring recommended crank arm length, use the same chart or formula result with the same inseam measurement method for any type of upright or recumbent machine.
     For many years, including the present, the 170mm crank arm length has been the most common.  Depending on the crankset manufacturer, the crank length choice range can vary.  Some smaller companies may have only the 170mm length available, which is usually the choice if a company will offer only one crank length for adult-size machines.  This is a good all-around size for many riders.  Other companies, however, may offer a range as wide as from 165mm to 180mm.  The most commonly-used crank length choices for many years have been 1st: 170mm, then 2nd: 172.5mm, then 3rd: 175mm.